Currently wool counts 5% of the world's textile fiber production. Raw wool comes in particular from some Southern hemisphere countries, which alone supply over 90% of exports. These wools are partly merino and partly blended, with a clear prevalence of merinos (up to 80%). Australia is the main producer, followed by China and New Zealand.
Wool is one of the most interesting natural fibers on the planet and is the protagonist of a unique journey that starts from sheep fleece and finishes in the fashion world. Using ancient techniques combined with modern technologies, the wool fibers are transformed into soft and highly valuable fabrics and yarns, used by the best designers in the world.
Wool is the most important animal fiber that forms the fleece of various sheep breeds. There are different varieties of sheep breeds that give wool with different fibers for thinness, length, shine and resistance.
The recent increase in demand for technical garments has greatly improved the spread of wool in the sportswear sector. The intrinsic properties of this natural fiber (effective control of odors, extraordinary breathability and excellent moisture management) cannot be matched by artificial fibers and protect the wearer from extreme temperatures.
WOOL & SPINNING
Most of the wool is destined for the clothing sector and garments can be produced mainly with two different processing methods: "combed spinning" and "carded spinning". The first one produces a more regular yarn whose derived fabrics are used for making clothes, underwear and base-layer clothing, sportswear, stockings, uniforms and sweaters with a more regular weave.
The final yarn of this process is called "combed" and is generally characterized by a regular surface, almost like "smoothed". To produce the "combed" yarns, the finest sheep's fleece is used, which is the back and sides. In this part of the fleece there are longer fibers.
Carded spinning instead uses short fibers, which produce less regular yarns compared to worsted spinning. The fabrics produced by carded spinning are more "raw". Carded spinning is used to produce garments such as Lambswool and Shetland sweaters, fabrics for coverings, jackets and tweeds.
The main characteristics of the wool fiber that influence the degree of spinning are the length, the curl, the elasticity and, in particular, the fineness.
SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR WOOL YARN PROCESSING
The experience gained with air technology combined with the use of heat, allows the creation of aesthetically beautiful, resistant and reliable joints even with particularly difficult yarns, various blends and yarns with high twists. Main field of application: Carded coarse wool, Self-acting yarns, High twist yarns, 100% wool and blends.
The waxing operation is carried out in order to lubricate the yarn, minimizing the coefficient of friction with the parts with which it comes into contact. This operation is done on the yarns used for knitting machines, which require a good flow of the yarns.
WINDING PROCESS WITH DUO-LOT FEEDING
The flexibility to simultaneously work different lots of yarn on the same machine is also maintained in the evolution of the automation, so as to guarantee this possibility to the customer.
"R" VERSION WINDER: FEEDING FROM PACKAGES
R version allows rewinding of packages of any taper, producing packages ideal for any subsequent use. The main fields of use are rewinding packages coming from the dyeing process, packages of different shapes and contents, packages coming from Open End spinning frames and packages remains.
WINDING MACHINE, SPECIAL VERSION WITH FEEDING FROM LARGE BOBBINS
While maintaining the same performance, flexibility and reliability features of the round magazine machine, this winder can process large and medium yarns at high speed in the carded, worsted and self-acting fields.
TWISTING MACHINE, SIRIUS DUO POT
Savio’s DUO POT system can be considered the real direct twisting of overlapped packages, it can be considered an “all-in-one” assembling and twisting. This allows to obtain a shorten production cycle by using standard conical packages. Consequently, the constant tension of unraveling the two independent cones and the absence of tangles are ensured, reducing to a minimum the defects and irregularities of the twisted yarn. The yarn obtained on the Two-for-One Twister is generally more voluminous, more swollen and of better appearance. These features improve the downstream production process, that is a better wearability in knitwear and dye uniformity.